6 Best Framing Spacers For Shadow Boxes To Use

Displaying a finished heirloom project—like a lace shawl that took six months to block or a complex stranded colorwork sweater—demands the same precision as choosing the perfect yarn. Shadow boxes provide the necessary depth to showcase three-dimensional textile work without pressing the fibers flat against the glass. Choosing the right spacer ensures that your delicate wool, silk, or alpaca fibers maintain their loft and integrity over time. Without proper spacing, condensation or direct contact with glass can compromise the structural health of your most cherished pieces.

Lineco FrameSpace Spacers: Best for Preservation

Lineco FrameSpace spacers are the gold standard for those who treat their fiber art with museum-level care. These plastic strips are chemically inert and acid-free, which is vital when mounting natural fibers like unspun roving or protein-based yarns that react poorly to acidic environments.

Because these spacers are designed to snap onto the edge of the glass, they create a permanent barrier that prevents the textile from touching the glazing. This is essential for preventing mold growth or staining, particularly in humid climates where moisture might otherwise get trapped against the fiber.

If the goal is long-term archival storage of a hand-knitted piece, skip the DIY alternatives. Lineco provides the peace of mind that no yellowing or degradation will occur near the contact points of the frame.

EconoSpace Clear Spacers: Most Versatile Option

EconoSpace spacers are often the go-to for custom framers who need a solution that fits almost any frame profile. They feature a clear, neutral appearance that vanishes into the background, ensuring the viewer focuses on the intricate purls or cables rather than the hardware.

Their versatility lies in their ability to be cut to size easily with a utility knife. Whether framing a single swatch of delicate lace or a bulky fisherman’s sweater, these spacers provide the necessary clearance without introducing clunky, distracting elements.

The clear plastic construction is ideal for projects where the frame borders are thin. They offer a professional finish without drawing the eye away from the craftsmanship.

Frame-Tek Clear Adh Spacers: Easiest to Install

For those who find the mechanical snapping of traditional spacers frustrating, Frame-Tek Clear Adh spacers offer an adhesive-backed alternative. These are incredibly user-friendly because they stick directly to the glass, eliminating the need to fit them perfectly into a frame channel.

Installation is straightforward, requiring only a steady hand and a clean glass surface. This makes them perfect for projects where you might be experimenting with different depths or frame styles.

If you are intimidated by the prospect of framing a heavy tapestry, the ease of application here is a massive advantage. They are the most accessible choice for beginners who want professional results without the technical setup.

DIY Foam Core Strips: Top Budget-Friendly Choice

When a project budget is entirely consumed by high-end, hand-dyed silk or cashmere, DIY foam core strips are a practical, cost-effective solution. You can cut narrow strips of acid-free foam board to the exact depth required to keep your knitted art from pressing against the frame glass.

This method allows for total control over the depth of the shadow box. If the item has significant relief, such as an aran-weight cabled project, you can double up the strips to create extra room for the yarn’s natural loft.

Use caution to ensure the foam core is archival quality. Avoid standard hardware-store foam, as it can off-gas and damage delicate fibers over time.

Bainbridge Artcare Spacers: Best for Deep Boxes

Bainbridge Artcare spacers are designed specifically for deeper shadow boxes where standard plastic strips lack the necessary clearance. They are engineered to provide deep support for heavier, thicker items that would otherwise collapse or slump inside a frame.

These are particularly useful if you are framing a textile that has been mounted on a thick board or a stretched canvas. The added structural integrity prevents the spacer from bowing or bending under the weight of the frame glass.

Choose these when you have significant relief or multi-layered fiber projects. They provide the robust physical support needed for substantial weight.

Custom Cut Balsa Wood: For the Perfect Custom Fit

Balsa wood strips are an excellent choice for those who appreciate natural materials and want a customizable, aesthetic solution. Balsa is soft, easy to cut, and can be stained or painted to match the frame interior perfectly.

Working with wood provides a tactile satisfaction similar to choosing between wood, metal, or carbon fiber knitting needles. It offers a warm, finished look that plastic or foam simply cannot replicate.

Be certain to seal the wood properly if it is unfinished. Raw wood can introduce acidity to the frame environment, so applying an archival-grade sealant is essential for fiber preservation.

Choosing the Right Spacer Depth for Your Project

The depth of your spacer should be determined by the “height” of your fiber art. For a flat-knitted swatch, a thin 1/8-inch spacer is often sufficient to prevent the fibers from touching the glass.

For items with texture, such as bobbles, cables, or thick decorative fringe, you must measure the thickest point of the work. Always add a small buffer of at least 1/8 inch to ensure there is an air gap, which allows the fibers to breathe and prevents them from appearing “smashed.”

Always err on the side of a deeper spacer. A shadow box that is slightly too deep looks much better than one that compresses your hard work against the glass.

How to Install Spacers Without Damaging Your Art

Installation should always be performed in a clean, dust-free environment. Use gloves when handling your finished knitting to prevent skin oils from transferring to the fibers or the glass.

Position the spacers first, ensuring they are perfectly aligned with the frame edges. If using adhesive spacers, apply them slowly, checking for alignment as you go to avoid having to peel and re-stick, which can weaken the bond.

If the spacer requires mechanical tension, double-check that the pressure is even across all four sides. Uneven pressure can warp the frame or cause the glass to vibrate and potentially scratch the delicate yarn fibers.

Plastic vs. Foam vs. Wood: Which Is Best for You?

The material you choose should align with the long-term goals for the piece. Plastic is chemically neutral and generally the safest bet for high-end, irreplaceable heirloom knits.

Foam core is ideal for temporary exhibits or lower-budget projects where the focus is on utility rather than archival permanence. Wood is the artisan’s choice, perfect for when you want the hardware of the frame to reflect the natural beauty of the fiber itself.

Consider the lifespan of the project. If this is a project intended to be passed down through generations, invest in inert materials like archival-grade plastic.

Can You Use Hot Glue on Framing Spacers? FAQs

Hot glue should be avoided at all costs when framing textile art. The chemical composition of hot glue can off-gas over time, potentially discoloring fibers or interacting negatively with the adhesive used on the spacers.

Furthermore, hot glue creates a rigid, permanent bond that is extremely difficult to reverse without damaging the frame or the art. It is far better to use double-sided archival tape or the mechanical fasteners provided with the spacers.

Bottom line: Keep hot glue in your craft kit for non-archival projects only. For fiber art preservation, use materials explicitly labeled as archival or acid-free.

Selecting the right spacer is the final, essential step in honoring the hours of labor poured into every stitch. By choosing materials that prioritize fiber safety and provide the necessary physical clearance, your work will remain as pristine and vibrant as the day you cast off.