6 Best Embroidery Threads For Sewing On Fabric Backings

Selecting the right thread for attaching fabric backings to knitted garments is as critical as choosing the correct needle size for a delicate lace project. A backing provides structure, prevents sag, and protects intricate colorwork from wear, but the wrong thread can pucker, tear, or diminish the overall hand of the fabric. Whether reinforcing a cardigan placket or securing a lining to a heavy wool sweater, the thread must balance tensile strength with a soft finish. The following guide evaluates the best options currently available to ensure your handiwork remains both beautiful and functional for years to come.

DMC Pearl Cotton Thread (Size 5): Best Overall

DMC Pearl Cotton in size 5 serves as the industry standard for securing fabric to knitting because of its consistent twist and mercerized finish. This thread is robust enough to handle the friction of being pulled through dense woolen fabric without fraying or snapping.

The weight is substantial enough to provide a secure hold on heavy-duty fabrics like canvas or cotton drill. If the goal is a permanent, structural attachment that resists the natural stretch of knitwear, this is the reliable choice.

One trade-off is the thickness, which may appear too prominent on very fine gauge projects. Use it primarily for sweaters, jackets, or accessories where the backing needs to support significant weight.

Aurifil 12wt Cotton Thread: Smoothest Finish

Aurifil 12wt is a favorite among those who prioritize a low-profile finish that blends seamlessly into the background. It is a long-staple Egyptian cotton, which results in a remarkably smooth texture that glides through both fabric and yarn with minimal resistance.

Because it is thinner than standard pearl cotton, it creates less bulk at the seam line. This is particularly advantageous when applying backings to lighter-weight garments where you want to avoid a stiff, heavy edge.

While its smooth nature is a benefit, it requires careful tension control during the sewing process. If the stitches are pulled too tight, the fabric can easily pucker, compromising the drape of the finished knit.

Olympus Sashiko Thread: Most Durable Option

Olympus Sashiko thread is engineered for heavy-duty reinforcement, making it arguably the strongest option for high-stress areas. Originally designed for decorative visible mending, it possesses a unique, matte texture that grips fibers exceptionally well.

This thread is ideal for projects that anticipate heavy use, such as the elbows of a sweater or the interior of a knitted bag. Its durability ensures that the backing will not separate from the knit even after multiple washes or extended wear.

Be aware that the matte finish and specific twist mean this thread is visible and architectural in appearance. It is best suited for projects where the stitching is intended to be a deliberate part of the design.

Sulky 12wt Cotton Petites: Easiest to Use

Sulky 12wt Petites are convenient because they come in small, manageable spools that prevent the tangling often associated with skeins. This makes them an excellent choice for makers who want a hassle-free sewing experience without the mess of winding thread.

The thread itself is soft and supple, allowing it to conform well to the natural curves and elasticity of knitted fabric. It provides a balanced hold that is neither too stiff nor too delicate for general reinforcement.

These are particularly useful for quick repairs or smaller projects where you do not want to commit to a large amount of thread. Keep in mind that for very large backings, you may need to purchase multiple spools, as the yardage per unit is limited.

Valdani Perle Cotton (Size 8): Best for Color

Valdani is renowned for its stunning, hand-dyed color palette, which allows you to perfectly match or intentionally contrast with your knitted fabric. Using a thread that coordinates with the yarn color can make the backing work look almost invisible, elevating the professional quality of the garment.

Beyond aesthetics, the thread has a beautiful, natural sheen that feels luxurious to the touch. It is slightly thinner than size 5 pearl cotton, providing a delicate balance of strength and finesse.

Because it is hand-dyed, the color may vary slightly between dye lots, which is a consideration for large projects. Always ensure you have enough thread from the same batch to complete the entire backing attachment.

Anchor Pearl Cotton Balls: Top Budget-Friendly Pick

Anchor Pearl Cotton offers high quality at a price point that makes it accessible for large-scale projects or frequent use. It is a workhorse thread that maintains its integrity well throughout the sewing process, offering consistent ply and minimal linting.

Many knitters appreciate the ball format, which pulls smoothly from the center and stays clean while you work. It is a reliable, no-nonsense thread that performs exactly as expected without the premium price tag.

The range of colors is slightly more limited compared to artisan brands, which might be a drawback if you are looking for a precise, custom color match. However, for interior backings that are hidden from view, its functional reliability is hard to beat.

How to Choose the Right Thread for Your Project

Selecting a thread depends entirely on the weight of the fabric you are attaching and the intended use of the garment. A heavy denim backing on a wool jacket requires a much higher tensile strength than a silk lining on a delicate shawl.

Consider the following factors before you begin your project: * Fabric Density: Heavy fabrics require thicker threads like size 5 pearl cotton to prevent the thread from cutting through the weave. * Visibility: If the stitches will show on the right side of the fabric, choose a color-matched, thinner thread for a cleaner look. * Stretchy vs. Stable: For high-stretch areas, ensure your stitches are loose enough to allow the fabric to move without creating tension lines.

Always test your thread on a small swatch of both the fabric and the knit before committing to the full garment. This allows you to check for puckering and ensure the tension is appropriate for the fiber combinations.

Thread Weight Explained: Pearl Cotton vs. Floss

Thread weight is an inverse scale: the higher the number, the thinner the thread. Size 5 is significantly thicker than size 12, which directly impacts the bulk and visible texture of your finished seam.

Embroidery floss, by contrast, is composed of six individual strands that can be separated, allowing for extreme customization of thickness. However, floss is generally not ideal for attaching backings because it is prone to knotting and lacks the structural twist of pearl cotton.

Pearl cotton is already twisted, making it much more resilient to the abrasion of pulling through fabric. Use pearl cotton for durability and floss only when you require a specific, delicate appearance in low-stress areas.

Techniques for a Clean, Secure Fabric Backing

A secure backing relies on the ‘couching’ or ‘whip stitch’ technique, where the thread captures the loops of the knit without pulling too tightly. Always use a dull-tipped tapestry needle to avoid piercing the yarn fibers, which can cause pilling or unwanted holes.

Space your stitches evenly, aiming for roughly 0.5 to 1 centimeter between each stitch depending on the garment’s stress points. Consistent spacing distributes the weight of the backing evenly, preventing the knit from distorting under the fabric’s weight.

When you reach a corner or a transition, double the stitching slightly to reinforce the area. This prevents the fabric from peeling away from the knit at the most common points of failure.

Can You Use Regular Sewing Thread for Backings?

Regular all-purpose polyester or cotton sewing thread is generally too thin and sharp to be used on knitted fabric. The fine gauge of standard sewing thread can act like a knife, eventually slicing through the relatively thick and soft wool fibers of a sweater.

While it might hold for a short time, it lacks the elasticity required to move in tandem with knitted garments. Over time, this incompatibility often leads to the backing ripping the stitches of the knitting it is meant to protect.

Stick to heavier-weight, multi-ply embroidery threads or pearl cottons that have a softer, more rounded profile. These threads are designed to nestle into the structure of the knit, acting as a supportive partner rather than a destructive force.

Choosing the right thread is a fundamental step in finishing that ensures your labor-intensive knitting projects stand the test of time. By prioritizing thread weight, fiber strength, and the specific needs of your backing fabric, you create a professional-grade garment that feels as good as it looks. With these options, you have the tools to reinforce your work with confidence and precision.